The ice and water dispenser on a refrigerator door is a very nice convenience. Over time, the ice and water outlets and the reservoir will get dirty and full of germs. The water reservoir on a refrigerator should be cleaned regularly to keep it clean and germ free. Cleaning the ice and water outlets should also be cleaned to insure it is clean and safe to dispense form. If the water reservoir is allowed stay wet and dirty, it can look and smell terrible. A little skill is needed to clean the outlets and the reservoir. Only safe cleaners should be used to clean the ice and water dispensing parts.

Gather the necessary supplies and get cleaning. White vinegar, a 1 cup measuring cup, a screwdriver, some gray tape and an old toothbrush should get the job done.

The very first thing to do is unplug the refrigerator and turn the water supply to the refrigerator to the off position. Unscrew the screw that is holding the copper water supply tube in place. Slide the copper tube out of position.

Holding the tube upright, pour about 3 cups of vinegar into the tube. Hold the tube over the reservoir to catch any overflow. Leave the vinegar sit for 5 minutes in the tube and the reservoir.

Using grey tape, attach the copper tube to the back of the refrigerator to keep the vinegar draining down towards into reservoir.

Empty the ice dispenser by depressing the ice dispenser lever to expel all of the ice. Let about half of the vinegar flow through to flush out any dirt.

Next, depress the water lever on the water dispenser. This will allow the vinegar to run through the water supply pipes and tubes getting a complete cleaning. Keep the button pressed until all the vinegar has ran through into the reservoir. If the reservoir is small, empty it as it gets full.

Dip a toothbrush into the vinegar in the reservoir. Scrub the spouts that the ice and water flows through with the old toothbrush. Continue scrubbing with the toothbrush. Be sure to clean the entire ice and water dispensing center with vinegar. Pay close attention to the corners of the reservoir.

Remove the reservoir tub. Rinse well in the sink with warm water. Replace.

Place the copper tubing back in its space. If the refrigerator was moved, return it to position. Turn the water supply back on. Run fresh water through the ice and water spouts for a few minutes to rinse all vinegar out.

Compact Freezers are useful and convenient units for homes. These occupy very less space and at the same time, provide descent storage space. Available in different sizes, these are perfect for household as well as commercial setup.

Compact Freezers are economical units and they do not consume much energy. These come in two varieties that is, the Compact Upright Freezers and the Compact Chest Freezers. The upright freezers have front open doors whereas the chest freezers have a top lid that has to be lifted for storing items. Some essential features to look for in these freezers include adjustable thermostat, temperature controls, interior light, etc. Most of these units have a manual defrost system.

Some good Compact Freezer brands include Haier, Summit and Danby Appliances. The Compact Chest Freezer from Haier, for instance, is a 3.9 c.f. capacity units with fast freezer feature. It has a corrosion resistant anodized aluminum interior and features adjustable thermostat controls, removable storage basket and power indicator light. The unit has hard and soft freezer zones and can hold approximately 117 lbs of frozen food. The unit has a manual defrost system and also includes a bottom pullout drawer.

Another effective unit is the 5.5 cu. ft. Danby Chest Freezer. Equipped with an energy efficient foam insulated cabinet and lid, adjustable front feet and a rust resistant interior, this freezer is a perfect unit for commercial setups. This unit has a power on light that indicates the status of the freezer and attached casters that assist in easy mobility of the unit.

These freezers are also required in medical setups. Specially designed low temperature freezers are capable of maintaining real low temperatures that are ideal for storage of vaccines and other medical enzymes.

When looking out for a suitable freezer, choose one that fits your requirement. A very big unit may result in wastage of energy and money. Avoid placing the unit near heat as this will result it more energy consumption. Choosing a Chest Freezer [http://www.cooler-store.com/chest_feezers_compact_71_ctg.htm] is a better option than an upright one. Since not much cold air is lost while opening a chest freezer, these units prove more efficient than the upright freezers.

Compact Freezers [http://www.cooler-store.com/upright_freezers_compact_69_ctg.htm] are durable units, available in various sizes. Decide on your budget and choose a suitable unit that fulfills your requirements.

Bar freezers are the little units, which serve their purpose well at home bar, milk bar or the hotel-club businesses. If you are looking for such a facility for your home or business, you can read this guide. A Bar Freezer is a stand-alone freezer. It is just like any bar fridge but smaller in size. Height of this freezer is less than 800 mm. Like any upright freezer model, it also opens from the front. Though these freezers have lesser capacity but are highly convenient to store high traffic items like ice or frozen drinks. They are quite convenient to handle.

Dimensions: Before purchasing the freezer, you need to measure the floor space available to place this machine. A bar freezer covers the minimal space as compared to other freezer models.

Capacity: A freezer for bar has the minimum capacity of around 80 L. The capacity of your freezer depends upon your requirements of storing frozen food. Be sure not to buy a freezer with a capacity more than you need as it would be waste of electricity and space.

Style: Style is the thing you need to look for in your bar freezer. The freezer needs to be stylish as it will be the centre of activity when your friends come over for a drink. You can choose the bar freezers with glass door.

Cooling: You may choose a frost-free or a direct-cool bar freezer. A frost-free freezer gets defrosted automatically while in a direct-cool freezer, you need to remove the build up of frost.

Single color candles are nice and pretty. A multi color candle is different, exciting and vibrant. How about making seasonal multi color candles? Do you have a favorite multi color table runner? Make a multi color candle that matches the colors in the runner. These candles look like they are difficult to make, but they really aren't, if you follow these simple steps.

Software

Candle Wax Candle Mold Stearin additive Primed wicks 3 different candle dye colors Fragrance (optional)
Hardware

Scissors Pencil or wicking needle Thermometer Double boiler Kitchen scale Refrigerator or freezer

Step 1: Preparing the candle mold

Insert the wick through the base of the mold about one inch. Seal the end of the mold with mold sealer. Set the mold upright so that the open end is up. Place a wicking needle, pencil, pen, wooden dowel, etc across the opening of the mold and tie the wick to it. Center the wick as best as possible. You don't want the wick towards one side of the candle mold, the candle will burn out on that side.

Step 2: Prepare the wax

Working with enough candle wax chips to fill the mold, divide them into three equal parts. Divide the stearin into three equal parts as well.

Step 3: Melt a batch of wax

Heat up the double boiler with one pile of stearin and candle dye color. Once the stearin and dye are liquid add the candle wax chips in and melt everything.

Step 4: Pouring the melted wax

Pour the melted wax into the mold. Be careful not the spill the wax and not to get it on you. While pouring the wax, you don't want it to get onto the sides of the mold because it will affect the next layer's color.

Step 5: Cooling time between the layers

While the wax is cooling, clean out the double boiler. Any leftover wax from the previous melt will affect the color of the next batch. Allow the wax in the mold to cool until it has formed a skin or film over the top. The core of the layer is still liquid but the outside has cool enough to solidify. The layer needs to be hard enough not to completely melt when the next layer is poured on top of it.

Step 6: Repeat for the remaining layers

Repeat steps 3 through 5 for the remaining layers. Use the same fragrance and a different dye.

Step 7: Cool down the candle

Place the candle and mold in the freezer for about thirty minutes. This will harden the outside. The inside will still be liquid for several more hours.

Step 8: De-mold

Remove the candle and mold from the freezer. Remove the wicking needle. Release the candle from the mold. Let it sit over night to completely cool off and for all of the wax to harden.

Have you seen the candles where the color layers run at an angle throughout the candle? To accomplish the same thing, you will need to position the candle mold at an angle while all of the layers are being poured except for the final layer. The steeper the angle, the more pronounced of an angle the layers will have. Before you pour the final layer set the mold upright so that the base of the candle will be level.

Are you moving to a new place? One of the things that can get in your way is moving large appliances. They are quite difficult to transfer from one place to another. Some owners even prefer leaving their old large appliances behind and just buy new ones when they have already been established in their new home. If buying a new refrigerator is out of the question for you, your only option is to move it.

Here are some tips that can help you move this appliance:

Tip 1: If you are moving your refrigerator and your other bulky home appliances, you might want to consider hiring professional movers. This will save you a lot of time and effort. However, they cost a lot of money.

Tip 2: Try asking for the help of neighbours or friends. Ask them to help you move large machines. Make sure you also get a moving vehicle that can easily accommodate all your appliances.

Tip 3: Clean your fridge first. Unplug it and remove all contents. Let it rest for a day until the frozen parts inside have already thawed out. The next day, try to dry up the machine as much as you can. This machine is tricky to move because excess water can drip to the other parts. You would want to dry it up completely.

Get an absorbent towel and wipe the interior of the fridge. Also locate the drip pan. The drip pan catches the excess water and oil emitted by the machine. Remove the drip pan and clean it. Let it dry before installing it back.

If your fridge has a water dispenser, make sure you disconnect it to the water source. Sometimes, water can freeze in the coils. You should wait until frozen coils have already defrosted.

You might want to do this step about 2 to 3 days before moving so your machine still has time to slowly drop in temperature.

Tip 4: Use masking tape to secure the door and prevent it from opening while you are traveling. Also tape the cord of the fridge. Remove compartments and place them in a separate box.

Tip 5: When transferring the machine to the van, carry it in an upright position. Do not tilt it. You would not want excess moisture inside to drip into the motor area. Also keep it in an upright position when you have already reached your destination.

Tip 6: Do not plug the fridge immediately. Allow it to rest for at least half a day before placing back the compartments and using it again.

Using high efficiency technology and making a few simple lifestyle changes can have a large impact on your daily energy use and make living off the grid much more feasible. One of the technological improvements I have made that I am most happy with is my home modified high efficiency refrigerator. This refrigerator has been my only refrigerator for 4 years and has operated flawlessly with extremely low power consumption. In this article, I will outline my reasons for the change and explain how to make the conversion so you can try it out yourself.

My motivation to experiment with a new refrigeration strategy came from my experience with my old refrigerator. It was a fairly common style of stand up refrigerator with a freezer section on the top third and it consumed an outrageous total of 5-6kwh a day! The major flaw of the common refrigerator is that the doors are located on the side. A proper design should take into account the fact that cold air is more dense that the rest of the air in your house and will drop in height when given the chance. Well, the cold air in your refrigerator gets that chance every time you open the door. As you gaze inside to select your next meal, all of the cold air rushes out by your feet and is replaced by warmer air from your living space that will now need to be cooled. Also, the magnetic door seals, no matter how air tight when they are new, will inevitably develop imperfections and allow the cooled air to seep through constantly.

An efficient refrigerator design must start with a well insulated chest style container. If you don't want to build your own, you're in luck because any chest freezer will work wonderfully. Cool air from within the unit will not leak because the door is located on the top. Also, each time you open the refrigerator to grab something to eat the cool air will stay inside and will not need to be recooled as soon as you shut the door.

The obvious problem with using a chest freezer as your refrigerator is that its thermostat is set for a temperature range far to low. To solve this problem, it is necessary to setup another circuit with a thermostat and relay switch to make sure the temperature stays at about 4 degrees Celsius. Basically, this circuit must turn on the freezer compressor when the temperature rises above 4 C and turn off when the temperature drops below 4 C. The simplest option would be to find a cooling line voltage thermostat with a range of 0 - 10 C but I couldn't find one so I had to use a regular heating thermostat with a range of about 0-30 C. If I set this heating thermostat at 4 C and hooked it up to my chest freezer, it would turn on the freezer when the temperature dropped below 4 C and this would only make it colder or if the temperature was above 4 C the thermostat would never turn on the freezer! More research was needed to solve this problem.

The solution I found was the SPDT relay switch. An SPDT relay uses the electromagnetic force of a coil to control a switch in another circuit and this relay allowed me to use a heating thermostat to correctly control freezer compressor. When the heating thermostat reads a temperature of 3 C it will close its circuit and this will allow current through the relay coil and flip the switch to the off position. When the heating thermostat reads a temperature of 5 C, it will open its circuit and this will stop the current through the relay coil and close the other circuit thereby turning on the freezer compressor.

In order to get wires to the new thermostat inside the refrigerator, I opened up the drain plug at the bottom corner of the unit. The hole is taped shut with duct tape inside. The relay switch is just tucked away between the wall and the refrigerator for now. I'll build a nice circuit box for it at some point.

I can keep all of the same foods in this chest refrigerator but the organization has changed because the door is on the top. I found two Rubbermaid bins that fit the large storage area quite well. I stack one on top of the other and just pull out the top one when I want to get at stuff in the bottom. I thought this process might get annoying but I found that I rarely have to do this if I just put my long term storage items in the bottom container and all of my daily used items in the top container.

Since the main reason for this project was energy conservation I should fill you in on the performance of this chest refrigerator. I plugged my energy metre into this unit for a few days and found that it used about 200wh a day on average. That's only 2 cents a day of electricity and a huge drop from my former energy sucking model that used 5-6 kwh a day. The most efficient refrigerators you can buy new today use around 1 kwh a day and this design uses only one fifth of that!

This difference in power consumption only means a few dollars a year on my power bill if you are already hooked up to the grid but if you consider buying solar panels to power your household technology then this difference in energy consumption means spending thousands of dollars less on solar panels so the simple change to a chest refrigerator makes living off the grid much more viable.

Most movers are so happy to finally arrive in their new home that they are able to overlook chipped dinner plates or a scratch on the dining room table. But there's no reason your household goods should become casualties of the move. With a little care and planning your household goods will both arrive in mint condition.

Following are packing tips to consider when packing large items, packing small items and packing awkward items.

Packing Large Items:Tie bed frames together with tape or rope then label the pieces so they are easy to reassemble. Fill drawers with clothes or fragile, well-wrapped items. Cover them with a blanket or with furniture pads and rope securely. Remove table legs, pad and tie together. Put nuts and bolts in a bag and tape them underneath the tabletop. Empty, defrost and drain the refrigerator, freezer and dishwasher. Clean the interiors and put accessories in bags. Stuff towels between washer sides to prevent rotating and tape down any moveable parts. Cover with blankets and tie. Use the original packaging for computers, televisions and electronics, or buy electronic-specific boxes.
Packing Small Items:Put your microwave, VCR and other small appliances into boxes and cushion with wadded paper. Pack books flat in small cartons, alternating bindings. Try to keep each box under 30 lbs. Pack hanging items, such as clothing and drapes, in wardrobe boxes. Leave small items in drawers. Wrap fragile collectibles in bubble wrap and tape them securely. Pack CD's upright and cushion with them newspaper. Stack pots and pans and cushion with them paper. Place any kitchen items you will need immediately in a separate box and label appropriately so you know which one to unpack first. Wrap dishes individually in bubble wrap and never stack them flat. Pack plates on saucers on edges and place cups and bowls around them.
Packing Awkward Items:Wrap chair arms and legs with bubble wrap. Place slipcovers on chairs or buy chair bags for protection. Loosen the handlebars from bicycles and turn them sideways. Cover chains and pedals to keep grease off other items. Wrap small items, such as mirrors and artwork, in newsprint and pack in mirror boxes. Cover larger pieces with cardboard, tape them securely and stand them along the sides of the truck or inside wardrobe boxes. Disassemble heavy lawn furniture. Put nuts and bolts in a bag and tie together. Roll up rugs and secure with rope or tape. Place plants in plastic bags with air holes then in boxes. Water them before you leave. Wrap sharp edges of tools and use plenty of cushioning to prevent injury. Tape long-handled tools together and place smaller ones in boxes. Empty gasoline from all tanks of lawnmowers and edgers and check for oil leaks. Use medium-sized boxes for garage and attic items, such as spray paints, brushes and car waxes. Throw away oily rags or anything combustible. Keep pets in a pet carrier up front with you. Ask your vet for suggestions on how to make their move less traumatic.

Use these packing tips for packing large items, packing small items and packing awkward items.

Have you ever wondered what the famous cooks of the world eat at home? Do they really spend hours every day preparing food on the lines of their recipes or, like you and me, do they sometimes snuggle down happily to a boiled egg and toast? Now, let us be honest. I am an unrepentant foodie and I suspect I spend more time than most deciding what I am going to eat, shopping for the ingredients and then preparing the dish of choice. I am eternally combing magazines and newspapers for new recipes, even though my kitchen shelves groan under the weight of cookery books of all descriptions. When travelling abroad, there is nothing I like more than visiting the local shops and supermarkets on the hunt for new and interesting ingredients and, when the humour is on me, I can happily spend hours in the kitchen preparing food.

As I have told you before, I live alone. That would present particular problems in determining what to eat, were it not for the freezer. When so moved, I cook large quantities of whatever and pack it into small, plastic containers before storing them in serried ranks in the drawers of my upright freezer. I also always have items like fresh vegetables, steaks, chops or fish fillets to hand. Indeed, my eldest son has been known to say that I am in eternal readiness to withstand a prolonged siege! Be that as it may, the biggest decision of my day centres on the choice of food for the evening meal. In making that all-important decision, I exclude all instant or processed food.

It is not that I am disdainful of such fare; it is simply the case - and I often feel disgruntled about this - that I have never found a fast or pre-prepared product that I actually liked. Thus, the option facing me is either to cook some meat or fish from the fridge or freezer together with a starch and vegetables or, to consume one of my own frozen meals. However, very occasionally, I simply do not feel like cooking and then, if I am also not particularly hungry, I eat nothing at all. This is what I call my favourite supper and I jest not. If you cook for yourself every day, it is strangely liberating simply to forgo all food and pass an evening without it. Apart from giving you an extra hour or so - remember there is a fallout in the form of no wash up - a mini-fast also gives one's digestive system a rest and purges the body a little for twelve hours or so. This must be to one's good. Do try it sometime. You will find it works.

But what happens if I don't feel like cooking and am hungry? No, I don't rush out to the nearest restaurant. I might have an omelet and salad, but just recently, I have been having bean soup with a large wedge of my own bread, followed by fried eggs. I am a devotee of the humble egg (particularly when it comes from a happy run-around hen, as do mine for most of the year) and especially in its fried form. For a change, try frying your eggs in butter or in olive oil with a generous quantity of freshly ground pepper on top. If you have not been there before, a culinary experience awaits you! But what of the bean soup? It, of course, comes out of the freezer and all I have to do is heat it, something I can just about manage to pull off when in non-cooking mode. Now that the chill of autumn is tightening its grip, I felt this would be a good time to share with you my recipe for this tasty and nutritious dish.

500g butter beans 2 onions chopped 2 medium-sized potatoes, peeled and chopped 1 large carrot, chopped 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 large lemon, juiced 4 tbsp olive oil A large bunch of parsley, chopped 2l strong vegetable or beef stock* Freshly ground black pepper and salt

*I sometimes use ham water if I have any. Alternatively, I recommend Marigold Swiss Vegetable Bouillon

Steep the beans in water overnight and then cook them in a generous amount of water for about an hour or until they are soft. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large saucepan and throw in the chopped onions, potatoes and carrot. Sweat for about 20 minutes and then stir in the cumin. Add the beans and stock and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Throw in the chopped parsley and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper and simmer for a few more minutes or until the vegetables are thoroughly cooked. Allow to cool a little and then blend until smooth. (I have only recently acquired a hand blender and what a boon this piece of equipment is for making soups; my life has been transformed.) I like to serve with a little virgin olive oil drizzled on top.

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• Adjustable Temperature Control.
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Many people find it difficult to really know the difference between refrigerator types. Finding the right model and brand of refrigerator to buy depends entirely on your own personal refrigeration needs. You might require a basic domestic fridge for in-house use, a low-temperature freezer for frozen goods, or a laboratory refrigerator for scientific supplies. As an appliance, a refrigerator is somewhat of an investment. That means that you'll want to make sure you've done all you can to pick the best one.

Laboratory Refrigerators

Laboratory refrigerators store important medical and scientific materials at specific temperatures. Some are therefore very low temperature refrigerators for items that need to be kept extremely cold. Others reduce humidity so that sensitive specimens stay safe or intact in a highly controlled environment. As you might be able to tell, it is usually people in a specific profession who use these types of refrigerators. They are not used in households. With their specific temperature regulation capabilities, laboratory refrigerators are designed with much more detail and fine-tuned requirements than a typical home refrigerator.

You can buy laboratory refrigerators in many designs, shapes and sizes. Generally speaking however, they exist in two main categories: the chest freezer and the upright freezer. These models differ mainly in the respective quantities of space that each one needs. Depending on the layout and available space in a laboratory, it is appealing to have a refrigerator that can fit conveniently under a lab counter. Small refrigeration units like these will reduce the risk of accidents because they are tucked out of the way of any traffic.

An upright refrigerator takes up a smaller amount of space in the lab than the chest freezer, but still has a comparable storage capacity. They are more effective at maintaining and trapping cool air than the upright model as well. Chest refrigerators can bounce back quickly to their regulated temperatures even when the door has been opened, exposing them to the laboratory air. Upright refrigerators are less efficient and take up more space, but they have more room for organization. This way, important samples are not misplaced or mixed up, and they can be accessed easily.

Domestic Refrigerators

We typically keep our household refrigerators around 38 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Unlike the laboratory refrigerator, the items we store do not require quite such careful temperature regulation. Domestic refrigerators do not vary as much in the sizes and shapes that they come in. Most are a standard size with a top or bottom freezer compartment. You can store your frozen foods here, or purchase a separate sub-zero refrigerator, commonly called a freezer. While laboratory refrigerators sometimes have more than one solid or sliding glass door, domestic refrigerators open with a single, outward-pull door. They usually feature sliding drawers for produce and compartments on the door for eggs and cheese.

You can adjust the temperature of your domestic refrigerator with a dial at your own leisure, whereas most laboratory refrigerators are equipped with an alarm system. As soon as the internal temperature undergoes any sort of change, the alarm will go off to notify lab personnel. Now that you know the difference between refrigerator types, you can see how the refrigerator's intended use largely defines the model you will choose to buy. Most people only require a domestic refrigerator, but now you are familiar with the higher-tech functions of laboratory models as well.

Many people think that a lab refrigerator is just a larger version of the domestic refrigerator. But there is more to a lab freezer than what a novice knows. Lab refrigerators are specifically designed to store critical materials over extended periods of time. The temperatures of these refrigerators is maintained and kept constant at all times so that the many specimens and samples that are kept in it can be preserved in a stable environment.

There are mainly two types of lab refrigerators. One is called the chest freezer and the other called the upright freezer. The main difference between the two is the footprint space that they take. The upright refrigerator, in comparison to the chest refrigerators, has a far smaller footprint without having to compromise on the storage capacity.

Chest refrigerators are also more effective in cooling and maintaining the temperatures by retaining the cool air in a more efficient manner than the upright refrigerator. These chest refrigerators also have the capacity of recovering and going back to the original regulated temperature even when the door of the freezer is kept open for longer durations. However, the biggest advantage that upright refrigerators have over chest refrigerators is that the samples kept in them are much easier to locate.

Laboratory refrigerators work most efficiently when the temperature of the room in which they are kept is also regulated and maintained. Very high temperatures hamper the performance of the refrigerator, and therefore it is best to keep them in rooms which have a temperature going up to a maximum of 45 degrees C. However, in high room temperatures the pressure on the freezer compressor is higher. Allowing proper air circulation is very important so that the refrigerators keep functioning well.

Cramming the room with too many refrigerators will increase the heat emission from the refrigerators and increase the overall temperature of the room thereby putting pressure on the compressor. Lab refrigerators cannot be auto defrosted because this cycle normally destroys the biological samples as this method thaws and then re freezes the samples.

Laboratory refrigerators are designed bearing in mind that a number of volatile or flammable objects will be stored in them. At times specially designed refrigerators are used just for the purpose of storing these samples. Such refrigerators are CFC free, have compressors that are thematically sealed and have an insulation that is foamed in place. The design of these refrigerators also allows them to tolerate explosions.

Another very important aspect of the lab fridge is the alarm system. Most laboratory refrigerator manufacturing companies install an alarm in the refrigerator that is programmed to go off the moment there is a change in the temperature or if the door to the freezer has been left open. A number of refrigerators are also being manufactured with alarm systems, password protection and temperature graphs that allow 24X7 monitoring. Since the advent of the computer fridges can be specially designed keeping in mind its functionality and requirements, making life in the lab a whole lot easier.

AWESOME EGGPLANT INFO

It is good to know for many reasons that if you're growing eggplant, it's related to tobacco, tomatoes, and potatoes.

Growing eggplant for food originated in the regions around India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and Sri Lanka.

Although in modern times you'll find most gardeners growing purple eggplants, there are also white, yellow, green, and orange varieties that are making a comeback.

Our Ukrainian neighbors introduced us to a delicious eggplant/tomato salsa that has become our favorite sweet salsa. Contact us if you want the recipe. We'll be adding it later this year to this website as we expand our offerings.

WHEN TO PLANT

In most parts of the country eggplants must be started from seed indoors, and then transplanted into the garden.

Some hybrid varieties take as little as 55 days to mature but most open-pollinated or heirloom varieties (from which seeds can be saved from) need 70-100 days of warm weather, preferably 80°F and above, to reach maturity.

In northern or cooler climates, start seeds indoors 6 weeks before the last frost date and transplant at least 2 weeks after the last frost date (that will put your plants at about 8 weeks when transplanting). In our short growing climate, we wait until June 1 to transplant into the garden.

Eggplants growing in cold soil or exposed to chilly weather grow poorly. Plant growth will be stunted and leaves can turn yellow and die (I learned this the hard way our fist year). Even when warm weather returns, plants may not fully recover.

Eggplants are more susceptible to damage from low temperatures (55°F and below) than tomato plants. Even a very light frost will permanently retard or even kill eggplant.

If you live in a mild winter area with a long growing season, you can do a second planting in the mid-summer to be harvested late in the fall.

WHERE TO PLANT

To grow eggplants successfully, they need steady, warm growing conditions for at least three months.

Eggplant prefers organically rich, well-drained, sandy soil and at least 8 hours of full sun per day.

You can plant eggplant seeds directly in your garden in hot climates.

Eggplant performs best in daytime temperatures of 80-90°F and nighttime temperatures no lower then 70°F.

PREPARING THE SOIL

Eggplants grow best in soil with pH between 5.5 and 7.5.

Incorporate well-rotted manure and compost, or an organic garden fertilizer before transplanting.

Addition of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil.

When you add well-composted manure to the growing area, it helps the soil to retain needed moisture and provides a lighter, looser soil structure that is easier for your eggplant to grow in.

Add up to 2-4 inches of well-composted organic matter. Work this into the top 6 inches of soil

Add more if you have heavy clay soil, this will help to lighten and improve the nutrient quality of your soil.

If the pH is too low, add lime.

Cover the new planting site with black plastic mulch 2 weeks prior to transplanting eggplants. The plastic will help heat the soil, so transplanting won't be such a shock to your plants.

Mounding up your soil to make raised beds will also help the soil to heat up quicker in the spring.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SEED VARIETIES FOR YOUR AREA

Verticillium wilt (VW) is the most common disease of eggplant. Look for varieties that are resistant.

SEEDS AND GERMINATION

Optimal germination temperature is 80- 90° with a minimum of 70°.

Cold temperatures (below 65°) will stop plant and root growth.

Once you've purchased your seeds they should be good for about 5 years.

GETTING STARTED INDOORS

Soak the seeds overnight before planting or sprout them by placing seeds inside a damp paper towel placed inside a sealed plastic bag and set in a warm location.

Use a sterile germination mix that contains vermiculite, peat or sphagnum moss. Moisten the mix before you plant your seeds.

In a flat, fill with at least 2" of sterile seed germinating mix. Plant seeds ¼" deep with ½" space either side. Cover and keep moist but not soggy.

Place flat in a warm location where soil temperatures can maintain a minimum of 70°F for germination.

Placing heating mats under your flat can help keep temperatures consistent and up where they need to be. You can also try placing your flat on top of an insulated water-heater, or an upright freezer may be sufficient. I have even had success placing my trays on top of the hanging fluorescent lamps on my grow stand.

Carefully monitor soil mix moisture levels. Using a source of heat will dry soil out quicker and potentially prevent any seeds from germinating.

Thin seedlings after the first true leaves appear by cutting unwanted seedlings at their base. Space seedlings 2 inches apart.

When seedlings have their second set of true leaves, block out the plants in the flat (cut in between them both vertically and horizontally as though you were cutting brownies into squares). This will encourage new root growth close to the plant which will minimize root disturbance when transplanting.

In one week after blocking out, transplant them individually to 3-4 " pots.

Eggplants are also good for container growing, with one plant per 3 to 5-gallon pot or container with a depth of at least 12".

If using terra cotta pots, keep in mind that they absorb moisture and your plants will need to be monitored more frequently for watering. This will obviously be more of an issue in hotter climates.

Eggplant seedlings need 14-16 hours of lighting per day with the grow-lights or fluorescent bulbs placed 2 to 3 inches above the plants. This will ensure plants grow large and healthy. See article on Indoor Lighting.

TRANSPLANTING TO OUTDOORS

Eggplant grows best if transplanted when plants have 6-9 leaves and a well developed root system. This requires 6-8 weeks of growing indoors.

When outside night-time air temperatures are maintaining 65-70°, and plants are 6-8 weeks old, begin to harden off your seedlings.

Start with one hour of direct sun and gradually expose them to more sunlight daily over the next week or two, bringing them up to equivalent daylight hours. Bring your plants indoors if night temperatures drop below 65°.

Eggplant needs to be babied. Do not reduce watering or expose the plants to cold temperatures when hardening off. Doing so can cause woody stems and a poor fruit yield.

If temperatures are not warm enough in 6-8 weeks, transplant your seedlings into larger pots and wait to harden off until the outside temperatures are consistently warm enough.

Water the seedlings thoroughly approximately one hour before you plan to transplant. The soil should be noticeably moist, but not soggy.

If you water your plants well about an hour before transplanting, the soil will stay firmly around the roots causing fewer disturbances while you're putting them in the ground.

Transplant on a cloudy day: Bright sun can hurt newly planted seedlings, so always plan to transplant on an overcast day, late in the afternoon or in the evening.

Eggplants should be placed so that the shoots are at the soil line as they were before transplanting.

Cover the seedling with a mixture of soil and a little compost. Cover the seedling and add mulch around the base to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Water thoroughly.

Provide shade the first day or two for the newly transplanted eggplant seedlings and protect from wind.

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row depending on fruit size. Allow 30 to 36 inches between rows or you can space plants 2½ to 3 feet apart in all directions.

Mulch immediately after transplanting, and gently hand pull any invading weeds.

Pour 1 to 2 cups of compost tea around each plant, and firm the soil gently.

PLANTING EGGPLANT SEEDS DIRECTLY TO YOUR GARDEN

Be sure you have enough warm growing days to successfully grow eggplant to maturity from seed planted directly in your garden.

If you live in such a climate, the earliest you should plant seeds outdoors is 2 weeks after the last spring frost, but your best indicator is weather conditions and soil temperature.

Eggplant is easily harmed by cold temperatures. Hold off planting seeds until the soil has thoroughly warmed to 70° and day temperatures remain above 65° at the bare minimum.

Sow seeds very shallow, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch.

Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart in the row depending on fruit size. Allow 30 to 36 inches between rows or you can space plants 2½ to 3 feet apart in all directions.

GROWING YOUR EGGPLANT SUCCESSFULLY 'TIL HARVEST

Keep the soil moist to promote maximum growth.

When plants are about 6" high, nip back the growing tip to encourage branching.

Pinch off the top of the plant when it's about 18 inches tall to encourage it to bush out.

Once you have three or four fruits set, it will be time to start removing any further side shoots as they develop. This helps to divert the energy of the plant to where it is most needed.

Pinch off blossoms 2 to 4 weeks before first expected frost so that plants channel energy into ripening existing fruit, not producing new ones.

Eggplants are heavy feeders, but avoid feeding too much nitrogen. It will encourage lush foliage growth at the expense of fruit.

In hot regions where the temperature tops 100°F, it's best to protect plants with shade covers.

When the eggplants bloom, apply more liquid fertilizer and repeat monthly.

Use hot caps over your plants for cool nights (below 65°F) to protect.

Row covers can be placed over plants to protect from low night temperatures and some insect pests. If you use row covers for eggplant, they need to be supported up above the plant by rounded wire, an a-frame support, or some other method to keep the fabric from laying directly on the plants.

Great care should be taken to avoid damage or breakage to the growing point of the young seedlings which will severely slow the growth and production of the plant.

Remove covers when temperatures are above 85° F to prevent heat damage.

If you have a couple warm weeks into fall, you can extend your harvest by covering your plants with a row cover.

Jenny's Tip - When you're growing eggplant, spray your plants every couple of weeks with a liquid organic leaf spray fertilizer. We highly recommend Organic Garden Miracle™. It naturally stimulates your garden plants to produce more plant sugar in the photosynthesis process. That in turn creates a more robust plant, more produce from your garden, and better and sweeter flavor. And they have a really good warranty!

WEEDING AND MULCHING

Add 3-4 inches of organic mulch

Use black or silver plastic (known as plastic mulch) to keep the ground warm before planting in cooler climates. Plastic mulches allow earlier planting and maturity, especially with transplants.

After preparing the soil for growing eggplant, lay the plastic over the planting area, secure the edges with soil, and cut holes for the transplants.

Using the combination of plastic mulch and row covers, eggplant can be set out before the last frost date if soil and air temperatures are monitored carefully.

Once soil temperatures have reached 75°F, replace plastic mulch with organic material.

Mulching with herbicide-free grass clippings, weed-free straw, or other organic material will help to prevent weed growth, and decrease the need for frequent cultivation.

Do not apply organic mulches around the plants until soils are warmer than 75ºF. Applying too early keeps the soil cool, resulting in slow growth and shallow rooting.

The roots of eggplants are very close to the surface of the soil, so it is important not to cultivate too deeply.

Cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface of the soil.

WATERING

For best production, plants need 1 to 1½ inches of water a week.

Soak the soil thoroughly when watering, There is little or no value to growing eggplant in light watering that only wets the soil surface.

Apply 1 - 1 1/2 inches 1x a week during the growing season. If your soil is sandy, it may require more than one watering a week.

Use drip irrigation if possible. Irrigate so that moisture goes deeply into the soil.

Irregular watering (under or over) can cause tough leathery fruit or root rot

COMPANION PLANTING AND ROTATION CONSIDERATIONS

Here is an example the inexact science of companion planting:

Eggplant is a member of the nightshade family and some gardeners sat it grows well with peppers. These plants like the same, warm growing conditions.

But, since eggplant is related to peppers (as well as tomatoes and potatoes), it attracts the same type of pests. So, on the contrary, some suggest avoiding planting eggplant and peppers in close proximity. I suggest trying both and see what works best in your area.

Beans planted with eggplants repel beetles which would otherwise attack the eggplant. Pole beans can provide shade and wind protection.

Marigold deters nematodes. If you grow marigolds as a pest repellent for your eggplant, it's best not to grow beans as the companion vegetable, since marigold can be an herbicide to certain beans.

Tarragon and Thyme both aid in improving flavor and growth in vegetable plants and help repel pests.

Fennel is a bad companion and is toxic to most garden plants. Depending on the plant, it can inhibit growth, cause bolting, or even kill plants growing nearby. Dill is the only garden plant that is not affected

Tomatoes, peppers, and potatoes, eggplant are in the nightshade (Solanaceae) family. These plants should not be planted in the same space the following year to avoid soil-borne diseases.

Crops should also be alternated due to soil depletion or pest attraction.

Planting in the same location once every 3-4 years is recommended.

HARVESTING YOUR EGGPLANT

If you grow heirloom eggplant varieties, you know that eggplant comes in a rainbow of colors, shapes, and sizes. So picking when a dark purple to black and 6-8" long will not always apply.

Some varieties, such as Thai eggplants, can be round like a small ball or long like young zucchini and are not a solid color when ripe.

The best indication of when to pick a ripe eggplant is when the skin has a glossy sheen and a correct firmness (explained below). It also helps to know the variety's expected ripeness color and size.

To test for correct firmness, press the skin. If the flesh is hard and does not give, the eggplant is immature and too young to harvest. If the thumb indentation remains and feels spongy, the eggplant is over mature with hard seeds and flesh that becomes stringy. You want a firmness between the two.

To harvest, cut the stem with a knife or pruning shears.

If you cut open an eggplant fruit and find that the seeds inside have turned brown, the fruit is past prime quality and the flavor may be bitter.

The best way to avoid this is by picking fruits on the young side, when they are 1/3 to 2/3 of their fully mature size.

Wear gloves. Eggplant has small prickly thorns on the stems and under the leaves.

Eggplants bruise easily so harvest gently. Always cut the eggplant with the cap and some of the stem attached.

EGGPLANT STORAGE

Eggplants do not hold up well in cool temperatures so the refrigerator may not be your best option. If you do choose to store them in the refrigerator, wrap them in plastic and use the vegetable within the next couple days.

Before using, check that the stem and cap are still a greenish color and no brown spots have developed on the skin.

For the longest fresh storage, mature eggplants will keep for approximately 1 week if held at 50-55°F and 90% humidity.

Eggplant can be dried in a dehydrator. Choose freshly picked, ripe eggplant (following the same guidelines under Harvesting). Cut into ¼ to ½ " thick round slices or ½" cubes for drying.

Eggplant is dry when it is brittle and wafer-like. To rehydrate, soak in water for at least 30 minutes.

An old-fashioned way to dehydrate eggplant is to string-dry the round slices. After slicing, cover them with coarse salt for a few hours to draw out moisture. Using a sterile needle and a string (do not use wire which can rust), string the rounds. Hang both ends of the string (so it is hanging horizontally) out of direct sunlight. Space apart each slice to allow good air circulation and avoid sticking.

NATURAL AND PREVENTATIVE SOLUTIONS TO PESTS

Flea beetles are eggplant's worst pest.

These tiny beetles chew holes in leaves and stems of seedling which is when they're most vulnerable, and can weaken or kill the plants.

Row covers are effective if they're completely sealed with dirt or sandbags.

Check under your row covers to make sure you beat the beetles to your plants and to make sure the weeds aren't choking your plants either.

Proper nutrition and watering also helps your plants resist flea beetles. Ridding the area of bindweed and wild mustard also helps.

One effective remedy for these beetles is powdering your plants with diatomaceous earth. It only works if dry, though, so if it rains or you irrigate you'll need to re-dust your plants.

If plants become infested, spraying Beauveria bassiana or spinosad may knock back the population of flea beetles and save your plants.

Colorado Potato Beetles are a black and yellow striped insect that lays bunches of yellow eggs on the underside of eggplant leaves.

Hand-picking the beetles and their eggs is the most effective way to rid your plants of these pests. Drop them into a pail of soapy water to drown them quickly.

Tomato hornworms are another pest that afflicts eggplant. They're an approximately 4 inch long green caterpillar with white stripes with a black "horn" on their last abdominal segment.

The adult moths are a gray-brown mottled color and have yellow spots on their abdomens and about a 4 to 5 inch wingspan. The hind wings have light and dark stripes.

They prefer tomatoes, but will also defoliate potatoes, eggplant and peppers.

Check your garden a couple times a week and handpick any hornworms you find. You can drown them in a bucket of soapy water, or, like we do, feed them to your chickens - they absolutely love them!

Keeping your garden weed-free helps to keep this pest under control, as well as rototilling your garden in the fall.

Braconid wasps are one of nature's natural antidote to hornworms. If you see hornworms with tiny white cocoons on them, leave those alone as those are the parasitic offspring of these wasps and they're in the process of killing these caterpillars.

Spider mites are another tiny pest that causes your leaves to look stippled yellow. You can spray these little pests off with a stream of water.

Cutworms will attack eggplant - usually early in the season when the plants are young and tender - at the soil line, killing the plant. They don't eat the tops of the plants.

Cutworms vary in color, gloss, and patterns (spotting or striping); they're black, green, gray, brown, pink, or tan, with lots of variations in those colors.

If you disturb a cutworm, they'll curl up in a ball.

The adult moths are also varied in color and pattern, but are typically have about a 1.5 inch wingspan. The forewings are typically striped or spotted and are darker than their rear wings. Their colors range from white to brown to black to gray.

To spot cutworms, check around your plants, especially if one is wilting, in the evening. Move clods or other debris away from the base of your plants to find hiding cutworms.

Look for cutworm droppings on the ground that'll be a sign that cutworms have been eating your plants.

It helps to make sure there's no weeds or decaying plants on the surface of the soil where small cutworms thrive. Rototilling your soil helps to kill larvae by turning decayed plants into the soil where they're unavailable for cutworm larvae to feed on.

Don't use green manure as the adult moths lay eggs in it; rather, use composted manure.

If you rototill your garden in the fall, it helps to expose or get rid of larvae and pupae.

If you have just a few plants, you can make a cardboard or aluminum foil collar to dig in a few inches around the base of your eggplant; this makes a physical barrier to keep cutworms from feasting on the base of your plants.

Diatomaceous Earth is very effective against cutworms, but remember that it only works if it's powdery and needs re-applied if your plants and soil become wet.

The main pest that afflicts sage is spider mites.

Spider mites are very tiny and appear as red specks on your sage. Heavy infestations of spider mites will destroy leaves.

As they're so small, it's difficult to see these pests and it's more likely that you'll see their damage before you see them. The damage appears as yellow stippling in your leaves.

A spray of water will often knock these tiny pest off your plants when you begin to see the stippling.

You can purchase predatory mites that will rid your garden of spider mite but don't bother your plants.

If the spider mites get to profuse, you can use diatomaceous earth, pyrethrins, or organic insecticidal soaps. Dust or spray your plants weekly until the problem disappears.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Eggplant likes consistency, and problems like "flower abortion" (flowers dropping), blossom end rot, and sunburn can be avoided by consistent watering and row covers if the weather is over 90°F for long periods of time.

Verticillium wilt is common in eggplant and causes the plants to yellow and wilt. Your best defense is crop rotation and purchasing resistant varieties.

Early blight is a less common eggplant ailment, causing leaf spots or loss of leaves and fruit in more severe cases.

Typically this blight appears in wet years. Planting resistant varieties is your best defense, and over-head watering only early in the day if you don't have drip irrigation.

Soil that is balanced with good nutrients also is beneficial in resisting blight.

You can also make an organic fungicide spray using bicarbonate of soda (baking soda). In a gallon of water add a couple drops of organic olive oil, a couple drops of environmentally-friendly liquid soap, and 3 tablespoons of baking soda. Spray it on your eggplant leaves to effectively control fungal diseases.

Late blight is more severe than early blight. Initially you'll see dark green lesions on the lower plant leaves, and you may see a white fuzzy fungus on the underside of the leaves. If left untreated, these outbreaks can wipe out your eggplant crop.

Use the above anti-fungal spray if an outbreak begins. Rotate your crops away from the area next season.

Remove and destroy infected leaves and/or plants.

Use early in the day watering, weed control, and plant blight resistant varieties to reduce the risk of late blight.

SavingAdvice had a great article about dumping TV and making more money. I found the article through one of the guys that I follow on Twitter. The basis of the article is that we each spend WAY TOO much time watching television. I know I'm guilty. It got me thinking that if I were to quit watching television altogether what would that do for me right now?

Benefits of Giving up Television

1. Cutting the cable would mean an additional 0 in the checking account each month.

2. If we were no longer using the televisions then we could sell them and probably make around 0 (maybe more, but our televisions are very old).

3. There would be more room in the family room and the study since the old TV's would be gone.

4. There would be more time in the day to spend with the family because no one would just be sitting around watching nothing for hours on end.

5. Getting rid of the satellite dish would mean I could re-do my garden without that giant metal thing sticking up in the middle of it.

6. My whole family would be in a better mood since almost everything on television is negative anyway.

7. No television would mean less time to be distracted and more time to focus on my blogs, freelance writing career and other income endeavors.

Giving up television might not make me rich overnight but it would definitely free up time, money and mental power. The more time could lead to more job opportunities. More money could mean more savings and faster. And more mental power would mean that I would know the best way to deal with the more time and the more money. Maybe giving up television really will make me rich.